How to Make a Gremolata

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He is 28, but his culinary resume reads like a seasoned 40-something. Washington, D.C. native Executive Chef Barton Seaver, a StarChefs.com Rising Star of 2006 and recently nominated as a Rising Star Chef by the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington, of Hook was taught at an early age about the importance of food.

Dinner in the Seaver home was a seven nights a week family affair. Eating dinner with his family was a communal celebration and involved shopping for the freshest ingredients at local markets, instilling this value in him at a young age. Mac and Cheese was never just out of the box, but prepared with a homemade bamel cheese sauce and pasta made from scratch. Summers spent at a family friends hog farm on the Chesapeake Bay, along with crabbing and going with his father to buy fresh seafood from local fisherman, taught Seaver the importance of supporting local purveyors and using quality and fresh ingredients.

According to Seaver, "Seasonality and locality made sense to me early on." Seaver began his professional career working for popular D.C. restaurants such as Ardeo, Felix, and Greenwood. After years of invaluable kitchen experience, Seaver made his way to Hyde Park, New York, where he trained at the renowned Culinary Institute of America. During his schooling, he spent time in the kitchens of Tru restaurant and The Dining Room at the Ritz Carlton under Sarah Stegner in Chicago.

Upon graduating with honors, he immediately took a fellowship position at C.I.A. as a graduate teacher in both the meat and fish classes. Working in this hands-on environment taught Seaver the importance of proper handling and techniques of exceptionally fresh products, all the while giving him direct access to sources of fish through the eastern seaboard ports. Under the guidance of Chef Corky Clark, he learned to appreciate underutilized species of fish and became a proponent of sustainable ocean products.

Seaver is a certified sommelier through the Sommelier Society of America and is continuing his studies with Wine and Spirits Educational Trust in London. Recently, he was asked to join the Board of Directors of DC Central Kitchen as the culinary force behind the non-profits educational programs. Additionally, he is also active in the Slow Food movement, and recently cooked at the bi-annual Slow Food Terra Madre conference in October 2006 in Italy. Other organization involvements include the Chefs Collaborative, the James Beard Foundation, the National Restaurant Association, the International Seafood Conference, Chefs Congress, a culinary resource to the Environmental Defense Fund, and the Seafood Alliance. As a firm believer in the idea that chefs are the keepers of food culture, he is publishing a monthly article for the online newsletter for StarChefs.com.

In an effort to educate fellow industry members, Chef Seaver will address the issue of sustainability from the perspective of a chef offering solutions to common problems they face in their profession such as buying decisions and their responsibility as the definers of what is fashionable eating. Monthly columns are archived on the StarChefs.com website with new articles posting on the 15th of each month.

How to Make a Gremolata

This video shows how to make a gremolata.

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How to Make a Gremolata

Ingredients

2 lbs. mackerel filet

¼ cup of salt

1 tbsp. sugar

2 cups water

1 1b. red skinned organic potatoes

1 tsp. natural almond extract OR 1 cup almond milk

¼ cup almond oil

¼ cup sliced, blanched almonds

I lemon, sliced very thin

1 clove garlic

2 tbsp. chopped parsley

1 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil

Instructions

1. Clean and cut the mackerel into fillets. To cut the mackerel, make one small incision right behind the fin. Insert the knife and push it straight down to fillet. Come straight out down through the back and end up with a nice fillet. Fillet up the other side as well using the same technique, just cut and make one small incision right below the head. Insert the knife and press straight down.

 

2. Trim the fins off and the belly. There are 10 bones and they run straight down the middle of the fillet. Use a V-Cut technique and make a small incision right down through the skin but not all the way through on either side of the bones and remove all of the bones. Cut about a half inch or so and once you get under them, just cut right under and then pull all the bones out.


3. To brine the mackerel, create a mixture using 3-4 cups of cold water, 2 tablespoons of salt and 1 tablespoon of sugar. Add the mackerel fillets to the mixture and let them sit for 5-7 minutes. Once they are done, pull them out and pat them dry with a paper towel.


4. To make almond potatoes, cut the red skinned potatoes in half and boil them in generously salted water. Simmer almonds in olive oil on low heat until they are golden brown. When the potatoes have finished cooking, place them in the almond oil on high and let them crisp up. Add a bit of parsley and some more almonds at the end.


5. To make the gremolata, slice a lemon into thin slices and sear it on both sides in a pan. Chop the lemon finely and put it in a bowl. Crush fresh garlic into a fine powder and add it to the lemons along with a bit of salt and olive oil.


6. Season the mackerel with a little salt and place it in a saute pan on high heat. Add a little almond oil and a little cooking oil to the pan. Cook the fillets for 3 minutes on each side.


7. Plate the mackerel and potatoes, add the gremolata and serve.

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Transcripts

Barton Seaver: Hi, Barton Seaver and today we are cooking with Spanish Mackerel, its one of my favorite dishes here. We have got toasted Almond Potatoes going in a pan over here and we are going to start working on a Lemon-Garlic Gremolata. Its a very versatile sauce, its really nice -- its nice fresh summery, but its also good in the winter too. Now I like it -- the lemons, what I have done here is taken this regular lemon, I have sliced it pretty thin, just like this and then in a pan if its inside, what you can do is just in a dry pan, no oil just simply sear them on one side and then the other until they become nice and caramelized just like that and what that does is it removes a lot of bitterness from them, you want a little bit of bitterness from the peel in there to give a nice balance to the sauce, to make it zesty and spicy and then what we do here and the sauce is pretty potent, so you dont need a whole lot of it. So we will just take these, we will chop them up very finely, as finely as you can and what I have found is instead of doing random cuts just sort of all over the place, make some very purposeful cuts one way, turn it and then go the next way. That way you end up having a lot of control over the product and you can get the cut that you want without ending up with random size pieces. If the lemon is too big then it will be a little bit to too potent in the mouth and you dont want that. So here we go, we have got our chopped Lemon, just put that into a bowl here, thats a little sticky so it ends up all over the place. And then the other ingredient that we have for this is so we have got top lemons here, got a little bit of garlic. Now fresh garlic is great, except when its too big. So what I have got here is a Microplane, one of the handiest tools that you can ever have in a kitchen, really great product here and just take a little bit and it just creates this very fine powder of fresh garlic. Now, you want to make sure that you are using very fresh garlic, dont use the crushed or the canned garlic, it just ends up -- the flavor is way too potent, smell that, its fantastic. Then the last thing that we are going to do is just mix it a little bit of salt. Now you dont need a whole lot of salt here and then just a little bit of olive oil rounds out the dish. Now you want it to be a little bit oily here so its like, sort of like a pesto almost and just mix it up and you let it sit, and that's it, its very easy. This is great sauce with grilled chicken even with steak in a more Tuskan style, Tuskan's love to serve their steak with grilled lemons and its awesome with almost any kind of fish. Now you can add in say if during the winter time you want something a little bit warmer, you can put a little bit of sage in there, something just to give it a little bit of different flavor to it. Thats our sauce and now I am going to show you how to start cooking the fish.

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